Our Dodge steering wheel hubs are model/year-specific adapters that let you replace the OEM wheel with a motorsport rim. The correct hub preserves horn function and, on airbag cars, the proper resistor load. Choose the right fitment for clean alignment, durable clamping and a vibration-free feel—ideal for daily driving and track days alike.
Net price: 74 €
Brief summary + key benefits
The Dodge – steering wheel hubs category helps you replace the OE wheel with an aftermarket rim safely and neatly. Model-specific adapters ensure the correct spline interface, reliable horn function and—on airbag cars—the right resistor load to avoid warnings. Benefits include precise fitment, durable clamping, sharper steering feedback and a tidy cabin appearance.
Technical Basics
A hub bridges the column’s taper/spline to common motorsport bolt patterns (typically 6×70 mm, sometimes 6×74 mm). Constructions in steel and/or aluminium balance strength and weight; the offset (depth) sets driver reach and steering arc. On airbag-equipped vehicles, a correct resistor value maintains system load; wrong wiring can trigger fault codes and warning lights. Usual pitfalls include wrong application/year, mismatched bolt circle, over-torqued screws and shroud contact at full lock.
Compatibility varies across Dodge platforms (e.g., Charger, Challenger, Ram, Caliber, Neon). The spline profile, horn contact ring and shroud geometry may differ by model and year, so always confirm the hub’s application list and ensure your wheel’s bolt circle matches the hub to avoid slotting or stress.
Selection Criteria
Start with your wheel’s bolt pattern (many aftermarket rims are 6×70 mm). Match the column spline for your vehicle, then choose the desired offset (depth): near-OE reach for daily comfort or a shorter hub for a more direct track feel. If adding a quick release, include its stack height in your reach calculation so stalks remain accessible.
Design & materials: look for generous wall thickness around the flange and taper, clean machining and corrosion protection. Use quality fasteners of class 8.8/10.9 tightened to the specified torque (Nm). Consider any horn adapter rings or spacers needed to retain full functionality and perfect centring; confirm wiring length and routing to prevent strain at full lock.
Use cases: for commuting/touring, OE-like reach tends to be most comfortable. For autocross or track days, pairing a smaller rim with a shorter hub can sharpen responses. Ensure the rim does not obscure the cluster and that full-lock manoeuvres remain free of shroud contact or wire tension.
Installation & Maintenance
Disconnect the battery first (critical on airbag cars). Mark the OE wheel’s centre, remove trims and the locknut as per the service manual. Seat the hub on a clean, dry taper; avoid lubricants on splines/taper. Tighten the locknut to the specified torque and use threadlocker only if recommended by the manufacturer.
Fasten wheel-to-hub screws in a star pattern to the correct torque. After 100–200 km perform a re-torque and inspect for loosening, shroud contact and wiring tension at full lock. If using a quick release, periodically inspect latch wear and keep mating faces clean to maintain zero play.
FAQ
Q: Which bolt pattern is most common?
A: Many aftermarket wheels use 6×70 mm; some systems use 6×74 mm. Match the hub accordingly.
Q: Do airbag-equipped cars need a resistor?
A: Often yes—the correct resistor value prevents warning lights after the swap.
Q: How do I choose hub depth?
A: Keep OE-like offset for daily comfort; go shorter for a more direct track feel.
Q: Can I add a quick release?
A: Yes—include its thickness in your reach calculation and check for play-free engagement over time.
Q: What hardware should I use?
A: Quality fasteners (class 8.8/10.9) tightened to the specified torque with a torque wrench.
